y your favorite oil finish in multiple light coats to the piece without worrying that there will be a significant color change. In addition, since the wood fibers are now sealed, you will find that you will use less finish to produce the proper build. This can save you a significant amount of money if you are using an expensive oil finish. Some of the oils in my studio cost upwards of $40.00 per quart and by sealing the bare wood before applying the oil, I can typically save about 50% - 75% Overview

If you've ever finished a light colored timber like White Ash with a traditional oil finish, you have no doubt been surprised by how much the finish can darken the color of the wood. While this color transformation might be the desired effect you are looking for, it may not be pleasing at all. Many of the oil finishes that are available can be quite dark in the can. When a dark oil finish is applied to a light colored timber like White Ash, Holly, Beech or Maple, the color of the wood may be significantly darkened, or worse yellowed.

Luckily, there is an easy way to prevent this problem. The solution will keep your timber truer to it's original color and save you money at the same time by reducing the amount of oil finish required to achieve proper surface build. To prevent your oil finish from darkening light colored woods; simply seal your project first with a lacquer or shellac sealer, prior to finishing with your oil.

Sealing the Bare Wood with Lacquer

I have been sealing light and medium colored timbers for many years prior to finishing with solvent based oil finishes. I typically use Deft clear lacquer and make up my own sealer. In the can Deft is too thick, so it needs to be thinned with lacquer thinner to achieve proper application viscosity. Mix equal portions of Deft lacquer and lacquer thinner (50/50 mix) and stir well.

This will make a thin lacquer sealer that will penetrate the wood easily. I typically flood this onto the surface with a brush until the wood will not accept any more sealer. Wipe off any excess with clean paper towels and let dry thoroughly overnight, or for a couple of days depending on the weather. Once the sealer has dried, cut it back with synthetic wire wool, or fine grit sandpaper like 600-grit or higher (use the highest grit you sanded your project to). Remove any surface dust with a tack rag, or some compressed air before proceeding.

You can now apply your favorite oil finish in multiple light coats to the piece without worrying that there will be a significant color change. In addition, since the wood fibers are now sealed, you will find that you will use less finish to produce the proper build. This can save you a significant amount of money if you are using an expensive oil finish. Some of the oils in my studio cost upwards of $40.00 per quart and by sealing the bare wood before applying the oil, I can typically save about 50% - 75%

lor of the wood may be significantly darkened, or worse yellowed.

Luckily, there is an easy way to prevent this problem. The solution will keep your timber truer to it's original color and save you money at the same time by reducing the amount of oil finish required to achieve proper surface build. To prevent your oil finish from darkening light colored woods; simply seal your project first with a lacquer or shellac sealer, prior to finishing with your oil.

Sealing the Bare Wood with Lacquer

I have been sealing light and medium colored timbers for many years prior to finishing with solvent based oil finishes. I typically use Deft clear lacquer and make up my own sealer. In the can Deft is too thick, so it needs to be thinned with lacquer thinner to achieve proper application viscosity. Mix equal portions of Deft lacquer and lacquer thinner (50/50 mix) and stir well.

This will make a thin lacquer sealer that will penetrate the wood easily. I typically flood this onto the surface with a brush until the wood will not accept any more sealer. Wipe off any excess with clean paper towels and let dry thoroughly overnight, or for a couple of days depending on the weather. Once the sealer has dried, cut it back with synthetic wire wool, or fine grit sandpaper like 600-grit or higher (use the highest grit you sanded your project to). Remove any surface dust with a tack rag, or some compressed air before proceeding.

You can now apply your favorite oil finish in multiple light coats to the piece without worrying that there will be a significant color change. In addition, since the wood fibers are now sealed, you will find that you will use less finish to produce the proper build. This can save you a significant amount of money if you are using an expensive oil finish. Some of the oils in my studio cost upwards of $40.00 per quart and by sealing the bare wood before applying the oil, I can typically save about 50% - 75%

Bare Wood with Lacquer

I have been sealing light and medium colored timbers for many years prior to finishing with solvent based oil finishes. I typically use Deft clear lacquer and make up my own sealer. In the can Deft is too thick, so it needs to be thinned with lacquer thinner to achieve proper application viscosity. Mix equal portions of Deft lacquer and lacquer thinner (50/50 mix) and stir well.

This will make a thin lacquer sealer that will penetrate the wood easily. I typically flood this onto the surface with a brush until the wood will not accept any more sealer. Wipe off any excess with clean paper towels and let dry thoroughly overnight, or for a couple of days depending on the weather. Once the sealer has dried, cut it back with synthetic wire wool, or fine grit sandpaper like 600-grit or higher (use the highest grit you sanded your project to). Remove any surface dust with a tack rag, or some compressed air before proceeding.

You can now apply your favorite oil finish in multiple light coats to the piece without worrying that there will be a significant color change. In addition, since the wood fibers are now sealed, you will find that you will use less finish to produce the proper build. This can save you a significant amount of money if you are using an expensive oil finish. Some of the oils in my studio cost upwards of $40.00 per quart and by sealing the bare wood before applying the oil, I can typically save about 50% - 75%

typically flood this onto the surface with a brush until the wood will not accept any more sealer. Wipe off any excess with clean paper towels and let dry thoroughly overnight, or for a couple of days depending on the weather. Once the sealer has dried, cut it back with synthetic wire wool, or fine grit sandpaper like 600-grit or higher (use the highest grit you sanded your project to). Remove any surface dust with a tack rag, or some compressed air before proceeding.

You can now apply your favorite oil finish in multiple light coats to the piece without worrying that there will be a significant color change. In addition, since the wood fibers are now sealed, you will find that you will use less finish to produce the proper build. This can save you a significant amount of money if you are using an expensive oil finish. Some of the oils in my studio cost upwards of $40.00 per quart and by sealing the bare wood before applying the oil, I can typically save about 50% - 75%

y your favorite oil finish in multiple light coats to the piece without worrying that there will be a significant color change. In addition, since the wood fibers are now sealed, you will find that you will use less finish to produce the proper build. This can save you a significant amount of money if you are using an expensive oil finish. Some of the oils in my studio cost upwards of $40.00 per quart and by sealing the bare wood before applying the oil, I can typically save about 50% - 75% on finishing costs.

Remember to lightly cut back the surface of the oil between coats and remove any dust before applying the next coat of oil. The number of coats of oil that will be required depends on the product and your personal preferences. Most of the oils in my studio require between three and twenty-five coats to achieve the proper build.

Sealing the Bare Wood with Shellac

If you prefer Shellac, look for the Super Blonde, or Platina varieties, which are the lightest grades you can buy. I prefer to use raw de-waxed Shellac flakes and make my own Shellac as needed. This is because Shellac has very short shelf life once it is mixed with the solvent. By making it up in small batches, you are assured of fresh product.

Denatured Alcohol is used for dissolving the shellac flakes. I use a 1lb. cut (2 oz. of flakes in 16 oz. of alcohol) when making a penetrating sealer. Pour the alcohol into a glass container, add your Shellac flakes and cover. Stir the shellac a few times over the next couple of days. When all of the flakes have melted, stir the shellac well and strain it through a fine mesh paint filter, or cheesecloth to remove any impurities.

If you do not purchase de-waxed shellac flakes, be sure to de-wax your shellac before using it. To do this, take the strained shellac and let it sit for a couple of days to settle out. You will notice that a cloudy layer has formed in the bottom of the glass, this is the wax. Simply decant the Shellac that's above the wax to remove it. The remaining Shellac is good for at least three months if kept in a container with a tight fitting lid.

The thinned Shellac sealer is applied the same way as the lacquer sealer, flood on and wipe off any excess. Allow the sealed item to thoroughly dry for a couple of days and then cut back with wire wood, or fine abrasives. Apply the desired oil finish in multiple light coats until the proper build is achieved. Always let the piece